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The surprises of the ever changing African skies (part 1)

August 2014

Don’t go to Africa with a strictly defined plan. Africa is the domain of the unexpected, and unforeseen and never underestimate its whims. And that’s precisely the charm of the continent. Be prepared for detours and delay, be willing to go with the flow, and you find yourself suddenly at places you would never thought to go to, surrounded by people whom you never thought to meet. With the itinerary in the back of our heads and not in our hands we took some roundabout tours and different paths, we determined the order of the route and took bumpy back roads. The first Southern Skies tour brought powerful insights and precious incentives. This tour was mainly also an exploration trip on which we were eager to perfect the itineraries of the Zimbabwe Classic and Southern Skies tours.

Starting point was Zimbabwe, at the mighty Victoria Falls, Southern Africa's foremost attraction and with good reason: this wonder of nature does never bore. The high volume of water, the mysterious mist covering the landscape, the many rainbows shining above the falls are breathtaking. The roar of the water is almost hallucinating and is described as The Smoke that Thunders, or ‘Chinotimba’ in the local Nambya language.

Big bonus in the beginning of the trip was a visit to unexplored Hwange National Park, just an hour ride south from Vic Falls. This area is not often visited and therefore almost virgin. Animals are not throwing themselves in front of your car like in other national parks. Here is patience king. Good things come to those who wait, as they say. And Hwange NP delivered! Our first game drive started in the middle of the day. Instead of driving around under the burning sun, we chose to wait at one of the waterholes, Masuma waterhole, on the north side of the park. The hippos were already there, the elephants came and so did the impala’s and warthogs. But our main goal was to spot one or two lions. Slightly disappointed we returned at our base for the night: Sinamatella restcamp. While a lot of persons stay at the main gate, we chose this less crowded and chilling place with stunning views over a wide valley and nice cottages with kitchen inside and a braai (bbq) outside.

In the early morning we were still excited about seeing lions, since one of us heard some screaming noises during the night and this could be one of the buffalos we had seen in the valley down the restcamp, getting killed by lions. At half past 6 we jumped into the vehicle, all hopes up high. Almost immediately we spotted three huge lionesses looming in the horizon, walking at a slow pace with a full tummy and disappearing in the dry, high grass. Although far away the look at them already made our day. Cherries on the cake were two hyenas just next to the road. At first instance running away, but one came back watching us, just a few meters away. After enjoying the animal for a while, we decided to head further when the car decided not to start. Since this had happened before, tour guide Playtorn knew the trick under the hood of the car. After getting out and saying ‘hello’ to the hyena it took of and in a sec the car was running again. A sudden and delayed shock hit us only 20 metres from the place we just left: six lions at the side of the road where eating what was left of a buffalo, probably killed and consumed by the big belly lionesses we had seen before. Ok, we could have know there was something going on, by seeing the hyenas who where waiting to get there share of the meal. The young lions were clearly still hungry, they where licking the bones and picking the hooves. Witnessing this superb spectacle made us feel very blessed (and hungry too).

Still hugely impressed we hit the road again, down south to a truly wonderful place: Sable Sands lodge. In just one and a half year time, the co-owners and managers Marleen Post and Brian Sabeta build a home away from home. Sable Sands is situated on the magical Dete Vlei just outside Hwange National Park Main Camp. The Dete vlei is a dried up river with multiple waterholes of which a 7 km stretch belongs to the Sable Sands concession, which allows them private game viewing in this area. Sable Sands is located just within the shady tree line, with eleven lodge chalets, or 'rondavels' generously spaced around the lodge’s central swimming pool and the main lodge building (gazebo), a stunning thatched structure. The lodge is overlooking the vlei and waterhole where the patient observer is rewarded by large herds of elephant, buffalo, zebra and various antelope species as well as being regularly frequented by lion, cheetah and occasionally leopard, as well as hyena, wild dog and other predators. The region has a wealth of birdlife with over 400 species recorded. Marleen and Brian are known for their warm hospitality and have created an atmosphere where guests become friends. After an excellent homemade meal by Marleen, good conversations start naturally around the fireplace. This is definitely a place Afari Adventures wants to keep close as it provides all we stand for: a welcoming, comfortable, lay down atmosphere in amazing unspoiled surroundings, far away from mass tourism and hosts who are always available for fulfilling personal wishes and campfire stories. We love it (and them)!